Tomintoul 18-Year-Old Cask Strength, Single Cask “FFB-37” Official Bottling Review

 

Tomintoul 18-Year-Old Cask Strength, Single Cask “FFB-37” Official Bottling Review

Tomintoul “The Gentle Dram”

This is Bottle No. 63 of 237 which came from a single First-Fill Ex-Bourbon Barrel.

Distilled on the 28^th August 2000 and bottled September 2018 at Cask Strength of 54.3% abv.

This is the personal project of Master Distiller, Angus Dundee’s Cask Expert and Tomintoul Distillery Manager, Robert Fleming.

Angus Dundee, owners of Tomintoul and Glencadam distillery, issue a few special Single Cask bottlings every year from each of their two distilleries. Although Single Cask releases are always special (where the description of “Limited” really does mean what it says, as they are limited to the number of 70cl bottles they can squeeze out of one specific cask), the specialness is that much more when it comes to Tomintoul rather than Glencadam.

Why? Because the entire Glencadam core-range (except their base expressions), are “Integrity” bottlings; that is, all Non-Chill Filtered, Natural Colour and bottled at at-least 46% abv. (The only filtering which they do is simple “Barrier Filtration” which removes wood splinters and other unsavoury objects).

So, leaving aside the fact that Single Cask Editions are always an event (as it gives you the opportunity to experience a Single Malt which came from a specific cask rather than from a marriage of multiple casks), naturally presented “Integrity” Glencadam bottlings are Baruch Hashem, readily available.

However, the same cannot be said for Glencadam’s sister distillery, Tomintoul. Historically, Tomintoul spirit has been aimed at the casual Single Malt Whisky drinker and mainly for the American market. (Hence their astute decision to pay for an American Kashrus organisation certification, that is, the “OU”, rather than a local British one, so that the product will be more acceptable amongst the American Orthodox community).

This means heavy use of E150a Caramel colouring in order to keep each bottle of 10, 16, 18 and 21 Year Old looking exactly the same as the last batch, and extreme Chill Filtration to strip the whisky of natural oils which ensures that when water or ice is added to the glass, the whisky does not go hazy.

A few years ago, out of their entire core-range, there was one single expression, namely the 14-Year-Old, which was bottled at 46% abv and proudly stated on the label “Non-Chill Filtered & Natural Colour”. This all changed in 2019 when Tomintoul made the decision to start adding E150a Caramel colouring to this expression as well. I suspect the reason was a lack of First-Fill Bourbon barrels and an over reliance on older less active Refill Ex-Bourbon casks which resulted in the colour of the Tomintoul 14 looking very pale indeed. They obviously came to the conclusion that this light yellow/green tinge was putting off the punters, so in went the Caramel syrup.

So, whenever a Single Cask, Cask Strength, Natural Colour and Non-Chill Filtered Official bottling comes out from Tomintoul, it really is a special occasion and a rare opportunity to taste Tomintoul spirit as it was meant to be tasted. However, this comes at a steep price. Here in Israel, these Single Cask editions sell for between 700 and 800 Shekels!!!” (£175-£200).

 

Ralfy’s Email to Benromach Distillery

I want to side track for a moment (but you’ll see the connection soon).

I recently enjoyed a Ralfy.com video, produced exclusively for his PatPals (that is Patreon subscribers), in which he related to us how he wrote to Benromach distillery, complaining that a substantial percentage of their core range were not Integrity bottlings.

Ralfy wrote to the distillery because he cares. When parent company, Independent Bottlers, Gordan & MacPhail bought the distillery back in 1993, bringing it out of its mothballed state and resurrecting this fine distillery, Ralfy had high hopes that Benromach would become the “Springbank” of the Speyside region. Initial indications were high with some fantastic integrity bottlings coming out of the distillery. Moreover, the distillery workers and guides seemed to be very engaged with the Whisky enthusiast’s world.

Then, in 2006, they released their “Organic“ Expression, certified as a genuine organic product. Clearly aimed at the casual drinkers and increasingly popular organic market it was chill filtered and bottled at a low 43% abv. Hopes of this being a one-off apparition were dashed when Benromach began a new range of Entry level Single Malts with similar low bottling specifications in 2020. At the same time, they had a complete rebrand from the really unique “small craft distillery” look to a rather generic “big spirits brand” look.

Ralfy, expressing his obvious frustration and disappointment, proceeded to tell them so in an email. In his usual less than diplomatic style, he explained that his harsh words were only because he wanted to see Benromach produce only the best whisky it could, without compromise.

It is really unfortunate that the Company’s Press department chose not to reply to one of the most influential Whisky YouTube channels of all time but what could they say?

Had he received an honest answer then it would have explained that they were simply following the prescribed business model produced by their marketing department, which (based on professional marketing software and data), told them that a large sector of the whisky market is made up of casual drinkers who simply want to open a bottle, pour a generous amount into a tumbler (often with ice), sit back, take a quick sniff followed quickly by a slurp like sip and then nod knowingly, accompanied by the ubiquitous statement of "Smooth, very smooth". Then they bring the glass to the light and say, "ah look at that beautifully clear golden colour!".

These Entry level bottles are clearly aimed at this market. The category which would never add water and shies away from any whisky which does not look like crystal clear apple vinegar.  This market demands low Abvs, so the whisky is drinkable straight out of the bottle.

It isn't that G&M ignores us though. They also produce integrity bottlings as they recognise that although we may be a small market sector, our purchasing power is a lot higher and our media influence is greater.

I think we enthusiasts seem to forget that despite Gordan & MacPhail (owners of Benromach) being one of the oldest established and most well-known of all independent bottlers, they do not have the typical integrity bottling policy which you would associate with most other Independent bottling companies. In fact, G&M often bottle their releases at 40% - 45% abv and they chill filter.

With this in mind, it's hardly surprising that their distillery also shares the same Bottling policy, whereby the budget range are all watered down and chill filtered.

The bottom line is that they are trying to cater for both markets.

I also think we should be grateful that they do cater for our sector as well. There are too many distilleries which produce wonderful spirit but are forced to produce lifeless whisky, aimed exclusively for that lower end casual drinker sector. We all know who they are:

Auchentoshan, Dalmore, Jura, Scapa, Macallan and Tomintoul to name but a few.

With the greatest respect to Ralphy, in my opinion, it is these distilleries which we should be aiming our guns at. Those which do not produce any Integrity bottlings at all.

Which Leads me nicely back to this Tomintoul botting…

I recently opened a bottle of 18-Year-Old Single Cask Ex-Bourbon Barrel (Cask No. FFB-37) Official Bottling Single Malt from Tomintoul, where they proudly stated on the box that this was Non-Chill Filtered for a full flavour experience and presented at natural colour so that one could admire the colour which is produced from cask influence alone.

Notice Tomintoul’s open acknowledgment of the superior quality of Non-Chill filtered, Natural Colour Whisky. Despite not one of their current core range fitting into the definition of an Integrity bottling, at least they don’t issue official statements (like other distilleries) that it’s all nonsense as it has been “proved” that, in blind tastes, no one can tell the difference between Filtered and Un-Chill Filtered whisky.

I have to tell you, this is Tomintoul at its finest. It's Tomintoul that everyone should have the opportunity to experience, not just those who are lucky enough to grab an obscure and expensive Single Cask which comes out once in a blue moon.

It is a national shame and for the Scotch Whisky Industry, that we are all being deprived of tasting a naturally presented whisky from these distilleries. (And please don't tell me that we can always look for an independent bottling example. That's not the point). It should be standard practice for every Scottish distillery to have at least one official Integrity bottling, something which everyone working at the distillery, can be proud of.

Pressure should be put onto these distilleries to demand that they add at least one Integrity bottling to their core range. Using up all your energy and time complaining about the fact that ALL Benromachs, Deanstons and Glencadams are not NC, NCF and bottled at minimum 46% is a waste of our resources and power. (In my opinion).

 

Tomintoul 18-Year-Old, Cask Strength, Single Cask “FFB-37” Official Bottling Review

Around 700 Shekels (£175) In Israel. About £150 in the UK

Kashrus Status: Unlike most of Tomintoul’s core range (except, obviously their Sherry and Port matured expressions) the Single cask range does not have any OU Kashrus certification on it (I assume due to the fact that it’s a very limited edition). However, being that this Single Malt was matured in a single First-Fill Bourbon Barrel, there does not appear to be any kashrus issues.

Package and Design:

I have never been a huge fan of the regular Tomintoul packaging. I just find it a bit old-fashion, reminding me of those 1980s kitschy two-tone mountain scene pictures you you’d to see at the dentists. It’s as if they were trying to keep the printing costs down. That was a thing about 30 years ago with the old printing presses. Nowadays, everything is digitally printed and multiple colour choices are no longer a problem. I don’t know how they managed it but when they had a brand make over, around 2018, they seemed to make that old fashioned kitschiness even more pronounced.

Which one do you prefer? The old packaging on the left or the new on the right?

So, the packaging on these Single Cask Editions is, as far from their regular branding as you could possibly get, with the exception of the “Tomintoul” name which remains the same.

The design looks like a high-end premium independent bottling with minimalist artwork, with the vintage Year prominently displayed in the middle of the label, and that typical spreadsheet like data table of facts below, showing Date Distilled and bottled, Cask type, Cask reference No. and Bottle Number. This is my kind of label. I just love it!

[As a side point: I once tried my hand at designing a label for a new range of Kosher Single Malts. It’s a long story, but the shortened version is that I presented this kind of minimalist design with the data-table below. I was very happy with it and other whisky enthusiasts I showed it to, seemed to like it. Unfortunately, the financial backer was looking more for the Johnnie Walker/Chivas Regal branding approach and, in my opinion, just didn’t understand his product.]

The bottle is cased in this gorgeous Jewellery box with a plastic window at the front in order to show off the bottle.

I have two criticisms of the design. Firstly, is that it looks too good! What I mean by this, that my first impression of it was that I couldn’t bring myself to open it. It’s almost as if the design was saying to me “You do realise that this bottle is not for opening, don’t you?! It’s meant to sit on the shelf and be admired. Then perhaps one day, you (or your kids) will sell it in auction to some collector”.

Well, it took me a while but eventually I did open it, and I am very happy I did, even though the bottle is now nearly empty.

When I did get round to opening this bottle, I got to my second problem. I was rather taken aback when I examined the cork stopper to find it was their standard cheap generic plastic design. Incredibly, the designer had obviously overlooked this one element. Obviously, a bottle of this level deserves at least a wooden cork stopper, something substantial with the brand embossed on the top.  Surely, they could have stretched to that? It’s like sitting in this stunningly beautiful luxury premium car for the first time and finding out the Media System has been taken from a 2005 Ford Focus. Ah Well.

The Tasting Sessions:

The colour of this 18-Year-Old is, as I’ve mentioned a few times before, 100% natural, and what a colour it is! I’d describe it as sparkling pale gold. It’s simply stunning.

Swirling the liquid gold around in my Glencairn Copita glass, it displays some good barley oil thickness. Bottled at 54.3% abv and only Barrier Filtered, this is what I was expecting to see and it didn’t disappoint.

Aromas:

The first thing I got was an image of walking through a picturesque garden with the smell of flowers and freshly cut grass. I know that Tomintoul is known for its “floral-ness” but this Single Cask Edition takes that to a totally different level. Sometimes the floral-ness (for example, in the Tomintoul 16-Year-Old) can smell ever so slightly artificial, like a can of air freshener. Not with this Tomintoul 18-Year-Old. It’s all natural. A bewitching assortment of flowers greets your nose. Most delightful.

Add some water and spend some time with this. They call Tomintoul “The Gentle Dram” and this one certainly is. There is nothing up-front or aggressively dominant about this whisky. Everything about it is laid back, subtle and, yes, dare I say, gentle.

Yellow fruits and sweet citrus fruits like apples, lemons and a touch of pineapple. This along with a bright spirit-y powdered sugar-coated vanilla cake.

Surprisingly, this “Gentle Dram” seems to be missing all those heavy oak wood and spice aromas you would definitely expect from a spirit matured in a First-Fill Ex-Bourbon Barrel for 18 years (as we in deed find in the Deanston 18 or Loch Lomond 18 to take just two examples).

I can only think that the Bourbon Barrel they used was only lightly charred, or perhaps washed out and left for a time before being used? It’s only my own speculation but I must admit, it is rather puzzling. I suppose this is by design but I have to admit that my initial reaction was rather disconcerting.

Mouth Feel

I took a small amount in my mouth and swirled it round gently. A light-to-medium thickness mouth-feel with the kind of natural creamy texture you just don’t get with the regular line-up of Tomintouls. Very nice.

Tasting:

It’s always reassuring when the aromas carry through to the flavours. Gentle (I’m using that word again), yellow fruits on the front of the tongue. Nutty Russet Apple with lemon and a touch of pineapple juice. Subtle vanilla cake with icing sugar and perhaps some soft spices in the background?

Finish was actually quite short for an 18-Year-Old but I suppose this is due to its rather mild and unassuming nature. Perhaps too mild and civilised in my personal opinion. You are left with light yellow fruits, slight citrus notes and icing sugar sponge cake on the palate. But it disappears all too quickly.

Final Remarks

I actually found that, unlike most Single Malts, this Tomintoul seemed to fade in character as the bottle went down. I’d recommend, after opening this bottle, you drink it with family and friends over a period of weeks, not months.

Conclusions

I enjoyed my time with this Tomintoul Single Cask. It certainly shows what Tomintoul could be if they didn’t ruin it with Chill Filtration and Colouring. I can see many people being delighted with this Tomintoul, especially those who are fans of the light floral-fruity Speyside character. I’d say, this was the perfect dram for them.

It would be interesting to compare this to the standard Tomintoul 18, which is Chill-Filtered and coloured. But I think I can already guess that the standard bottling will be missing that lovely creamy mouth feel and those wonderful natural floral notes. If only Tomintoul could think about offering us something like this in their regular core range. We can only hope.