Entry-Level "Integrity" Single Malts - Quality on a Budget
Entry-Level "Integrity" (or at least more interesting) Single Malts
"Quality on a Budget"
MAJOR UPDATE 24/11/2022
Whenever I am in a social setting or chatting with someone in a wine store, I am often asked for recommendations for in-expensive “Entry Level” Single Malt Whiskies.
This request usually comes from the casual drinker who enjoys drinking whisky but mainly drinks Blends. He/she isn’t really sure what the difference actually is between Blends, Blended Malts and Single Malts. Used to spending around 80-100 shekels (£25) for his/her whisky, he/she isn’t willing to spend much more than that but is nonetheless curious as to whether Single Malts will give them a more rewarding and enjoyable drinking experience.
Most salespersons would direct them to the likes of the ubiquitous Glenlivet 12 or Founders Reserve and of course the most famous of them all, the Glenfiddich 12. Perhaps the Auchentoshan American Oak. Perhaps the Cardhu 12, Glen Grant 10 or 12, The Singleton or even one of those unnamed Branded Single Malts like Glen Turner, all for around 150 shekels (£40).
Although almost all these Single Malts were wonderful whilst still sitting in the cask, showing a singular personality and unique distillery signature, before we get them in the bottle however, they have all been heavily sanitized. The company's Master Blender is under orders to turn their whisky into something which is utterly innocuous and as inoffensive as possible. (The technical term for this is "Smooth").
"Smooth" Single Malts share the following characteristics:
- Reduced with water at the bottling plant to 40% abv to meet the bare minimum legal alcohol requirement for Scotch whisky. This reduces costs (as they can fill more bottles with the same amount of alcohol) and makes the whisky more user friendly by providing an experience straight out the bottle without the need for the drinker to add water.
- Chill-filtered using a series of filter papers to produce a clean, clear looking liquid. Chill-Filtration also removes 80% of the natural oils and other elements which would otherwise give the whisky character, texture and complexity.
- Pouring in a few gallons of E150a Caramel colouring for good measure, to give it that artificial Scotch toffee look that we are all “supposed” to admire.
An Integrity Bottling
So, an Integrity bottling would be one where they bottled it at:
- a high enough alcohol level so that the Single Malt retains its flavour profile (considered by experts to minimum 46% abv or with some compromises, 43% abv).
- is not Chill-Filtered so that its natural colour is not altered which will allow you to see the influence of the cask.
- Some would add to this list, an Age Statement.
As Roy Duff from YouTube channel "Aqvivitae" puts it so well: It's not about the smoothness, people get hooked on the flavour! Stop taking it out!
https://youtube.com/shorts/JzQA86PyO8c?feature=share
The question is: Is it possible to find an integrity naturally presented style (or at least less sanitized) Single Malt Whisky at an entry level price?
The answer is Yes! (Sort of).
I want to explain why I believe the Single Malts which I have selected for you below, have a much better chance (in my opinion), of getting someone to cross that bridge from Blends to Single Malts. As mentioned above, it's because there are distilleries who are willing to produce Single Malts which don't have an obsessive corporate policy of making (and I'll use the technical term again), "Smooth" whisky!!!
All these "Auchentoshan/Glenfiddich/Glenlivet/Cardhu..." standard releases have been over-processed and over-engineered in the company's never ending endeavour to produce a whisky without any atypical or unfamiliar flavours which, at least according their marketing departments, might possibly offend or dare I say, confuse the casual drinker. This results in an end product which lacks any distinct character or singular personality.
When I spoke to a few distillery workers who are producing these generic "smooth" Single Malts, they privately confessed to me that they were very much aware of the situation and expressed their frustration that their beloved distillery character was being strangled. Some of them could take solace in the fact that their particular distillery also produced "Distillery Only" bottlings or/and the occasional "Limited Edition" releases which do reflect the true character of their distilleries (all be it that they come with premium price tag). Others are not so lucky.
The distillery is instructed to keep strictly to a specific recipe of percentage vattings from Refill Casks to produce a pleasant, innocuous, completely non-offensive, boring, bland and forgettable experience, with no singular flavour note which deviates from the bland sugary-sweet-fruity-toffee-vanilla and honey generic flavour profile, but would be the very flavours which would give the whisky its character.
What singles out Single Malt from Scotch Blended whisky is its singular character and identifiable personality! That's why I believe that this short sighted corporate policy of producing totally "Smooth", non-offensive whisky is ultimately self defeating.
Frankly, (and they are designed this way), they could just as well be Blends but with the addition of a high percentage of malts.
So, when asked for budget entry-level recommendations or when conducting whisky tasting evenings for newbies, I will always recommend first and foremost, more full-bodied and flavoursome budget level Single Malts which might be slightly rough around the edges with some unfamiliar "off notes", but will nevertheless be unforgettable. Failing this "Integrity" standard, I'd recommend Single Malts, whilst not technically being Integrity bottlings, nevertheless do have a certain interesting aspect to them which makes them stand out from those other "Smooth" Single Malts on the shelves.
Love them or hate my selections, at least none of them could be described as bland. All have their own unique character, which makes them readily identifiable. At the end of the evening, everyone will hopefully have their own favourites, and it's that which hooks them and takes them across that difficult bridge and into the wonderful world of Single Malt Whiskies.
The following (Strictly Kosher) selection you should be able to find in the shops for under 180 Shekels (about £45) here in Israel and under £35 in the UK.
Deanston Virgin Oak, 46.3% abv, Non-Chill-Filtered, Natural Colour.
This is the only Single Malt Whisky in this price range which can truly be termed an Integrity bottling. It’s bottled at a very respectable 46.3% abv, is not chill filtered in anyway, (simply barrier filtered to remove foreign matter like wood splinters) and the colour you see has come exclusively from the influence of the Oak wood (in this case, Charred American White Oak), and the previous contents of the Cask, in this case, American Bourbon Whiskey.
Tasting notes of wet apple strudel, cinnamon with chewy honey, flaky wet stodgy pastry and peculiarly enough, a bit of curry powder! Mixed Spice, Dried oranges, Yellow cooked Apple with lashings of white caramelized toffee which oozes from the middle of the tongue. The finish is soft Fudge, White Toffee sweets, creamy Peanut and almond butter. There is some burnt caramelised coconut, Honey and apple cake made with powdered vanilla sugar, cinnamon and ginger.
If I had a single criticism, it would be their decision not to put an age-statement on the label. In order to keep the price down they have utilised their stock of young whiskies and are afraid that the more casual drinker would be put off by an Age Statement of 6,7 or 8 years. I think they should ignore the marketing guys and proudly state the age.
Glencadam American Oak, 40%. £29 in the UK. (I haven't as yet seen it in Israel)
Unlike the others in the rest of the Glencadam range, this release does not state "Natural Colour" and "Un-Chill Filtered" on the label. I have no doubt that bottled at 40%, it is to some extent Chill Filtered but at least to my eyes, looks the natural colour for a fully Bourbon Barrel matured malt, with none of those tell tail E150a signs of orange tint.
I was privileged to try this delicious dram a few times at a Shul Kiddush at a Federation Synagogue, just outside London, whilst visiting the UK recently. It was my luck that someone had donated it to the shul the previous week.
Glencadam has managed to do a terrific job (despite the compromises of chill-filtration and minimum 40% abv), showing all the signs of a really well made Bourbon Barrel matured Single Malt, all be it with some of the complexities displayed in the Glencadam 10-Year-Old, absent.
It does however retain that lovely Glencadam Dunnage Warehouse smell, mixed with the flavours of fruit crumble tart made with yellow apples, golden syrup, golden sultanas, honey, roasted hazelnuts, some glazed lemon peel.
I really did very much appreciate drinking this Single Malt, rather than the usual Blended Whisky served at a standard shul kiddush, despite the fact that it was served in those ubiquitous plastic disposable grape-juice cups. It was a delightful surprise.
What is also important to mention is that, once you've enjoyed Glencadam American Oak, you now have an awareness of the Glencadam brand and might hopefully be tempted to try their more expensive (and equally more rewarding) expressions.
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Talking of the Glencadam 10, this would be just outside the considered Budget/Entry Level Single Malt in the UK as its priced at £39. Alas, it is priced at 260 Shekels here in Israel (about £62) making it far too high to include in my list.
Glen Moray 12-Year-Old, 48% abv, Non-Chill-Filtered.
This is the Integrity bottling (high abv and Non-Chill Filtered but sadly, still coloured), version of the classic Glen Moray 12-Year-Old which has been going strong since the early 1980s. At 48% alcohol one should add some water to open up all those wonderful flavours.
A ridiculously easy drinking single malt. Showing a classic Speyside character of light floral and white fruity aromas and flavours and, thanks to non-chill filtration, now with a clear personality all of its own. Well balanced soft wood spices with creamy heather honey and Rakusens Digestive biscuits from the 12 years of maturation in Ex-Bourbon American Oak. It leaves a lovely malty biscuit pastry taste in the mouth.
If only the standard 12-Year-Old is available in your region then there is no need to add water, it is delicious as is, at 40% abv, although missing the creamy mouth feel and some of the complexity of the Integrity release. It's definitely worth a try. Many continue to love it even after their whisky budget increases.
Glen Moray Classic, 40% abv
Remarkably similar to it's big sister, the 12-Year-Old, showing only a slight hint of young whisky. I would highly recommend it for three reasons.
One, it's incredibly cheap and overlaps the more expensive Blends, selling for around 100 Shekels in Israel and £25 in the UK. In the UK, you often see it, along with its sister expression, "The Peated Classic" for as little as £20!
Two, it looks like it's been bottled without any colouring added, displaying a very pale straw colour. This is definitely to be applauded. If Glen Moray has the confidence to bottle this at natural or near natural colour, then so can the others.
Three. It just happens to be really tasty stuff despite all its technical deficits. White and yellow apples, fruity white wine, a touch of honey and malty biscuit with a hint of oakiness.
Glen Moray Classic Peated, 40% abv
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This Single Malt has all the advantages of its sister, the standard Glen Moray Classic but with the addition of being very gently peated. It therefore can be a wonderful non-threatening introduction to the world of peated Single Malts. It's also, like its sister, dirt cheap. If one really wanted to impress anyone except a whisky snob, I'd recommend giving them a present of a bottle of Glen Moray Classic and Classic Peated as a contrasting set.
Arran American Barrel Reserve, 43%, Natural Colour.
Unlike all other expressions in the Lochranza Distillery range, this entry-level Arran is not technically an Integrity bottling as it’s only bottled at slightly above the minimum 40% abv and therefore one can assume it has been at least lightly chill-filtered (presumably they have done this so that the whisky does not go misty when ice is added). However, the label states in large print that, like its older brothers, this Arran is also 100% natural colour.
Aromas of Lemon Sherbet, Lemon sorbet, Wood furniture store, Sweet light Cider in new oak, Honey dew Melon, Yellow Apples, Vanilla cream, Caramel, Banana.
As I said, it can only be lightly chill-filtered as the American Barrel Reserve still retains a pretty substantial and impressive mouth feel of barley cream oily-ness. Tasting notes of a blend of Sauterne wine and Sauvignon Blanc, Sweet White pepper with a hint of Salad dressing lemon vinaigrette. On the finish, Caramelized Banana, Demi-Sec White wine and soft spices.
Loch Lomond Original, 40% abv.
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It would be a legitimate question to ask why on earth I have included this particular Single Malt as it meets none of the requirements for an Integrity malt? Indeed, it is bottled at minimum 40%, is Chill-Filtered and has colour added!!! to make matters worse, it even boasts on the front of the box "Smoothed to Perfection". (Editor's note: I think I'm gonna be sick).
I'd answer this by saying that, even with all its compromises (which in my opinion are unnecessary as they could bottle it at 43% and not add colour without breaking the bank), it still shows a whiff of that Loch Lomond magic and might well act a gateway whisky to the rest of the Loch Lomond range, offering a tantalising hint of a better whisky enjoyment to come.
Still superior (in my opinion) to your run-of-the-mill Blend, the Loch Lomond Original possesses flavours digestive biscuits, a whiff of smoke, salted caramel and ginger-bread men. It does have a hint of spirit nail-polish remover, typical of cheap young whisky though.
Loch Lomond 12 Year old (Standard Edition). 46% abv.
Non Chill Filtered but probably has colour added.
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I thought I'd mention that above this Entry-Level bottling, for only a slight jump in your budget allowance (by about 60 shekels), Loch Lomond Distillery offers three contrasting 12-Year-Olds (see below). We start off with their standard "Highands" style being matured in a combination of Ex-Bourbon, Charred Casks and Refill Casks. Despite its low price, Loch Lomond has still managed to bottle it at the very respectable 46% abv and they state very prominently and proudly on the label that these bottles have not been Chill Filtered. Unfortunately, though, for some unfathomable reason, the company insists on adding Caramel colour.
Slightly dryer than the typical Highland malt it still conveys flavours of Demerara Sugar, Apples and Pears, Yellow Plums, fresh mint and kitchen spices. It is surprisingly dry with honey and vanilla shortcake on the finish.
Loch Lomond Inchmurrin 12, 46% abv, Non-Chill-Filtered
With the same Integrity pedigree and cask type maturation as its sister expression, the Loch Lomond 12, the Inchmurrin 12 (named after the island in the Loch Lomond) uses their straight Necked still (rather than the regular inclined Lynne arm) to produce a more meaty and fruitier new-make-spirit.
This translates into a bigger, creamier mouth feel than the Loch Lomond 12, rich sweet porridge barley flavours, stewed apples, sultanas and toffee with some sweet wood spices to end.
Loch Lomond Inchmoan 12 46% abv, Non-Chill-Filtered
Also named after an island in Loch Lomond, the Inchmoan 12, which completes the set, has a similar profile to the Loch Lomond 12, except a percentage of the mash has come from peated malted barley. It’s essentially a mild peaty-smoky version of Loch Lomond 12 and a superb introduction into these styles of Single Malts, before one begins to tackle the likes of Laphroaig, Ardbeg, Arran’s Machrie Moore etc.
Smoky Fresh Mint, Black Pepper, Apple Strudel, Honey and Cinnamon with medicinal peat smoke in the background.
Glenmorangie 10-Year-Old “Original”
An honourable mention to the Glenmorangie 10 Year-Old “Original”, which although not being an Integrity bottling, it doesn’t seem to be heavily chill-filtered and appears to be near, if not totally natural colour, displaying a rich Chardonnay yellow tint rather than the toffee brown colour associated with a whisky with added E150a Caramel colouring.
This is a medium bodied whisky with intense fruity sweet flavours of mixed fruit jam (peaches, pineapple, apricots and other yellow apples). Lashings of honey and woody maple syrup with glazed orange peels and a hint of spices on the finish. (Kosher Certification by the OU). A classic Entry-Level dram which, over the years, has already persuaded many in showing the advantages of Single Malts over Blends.
Old Pulteney 12, 40% abv.
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This is another one of those Single Malts which admittedly, do not meet any of the requirements for an Integrity bottling, but nevertheless, I would recommend that you try, as , despite all its limitations, still retains that unique Coastal/Briny character, typical of North Highlands like Clynelish, Brora and the better expressions from Old Pulteney.
Moreover, praise must be mentioned for the company's continued commitment to an Age Statement. It proudly states "12-Years-Old" on the label when many others are dumping Age Statements in favour of fancy names to give them the flexibility of adding younger whisky to the vatting.
In some stores in Israel, it might fall slightly over my set budget limit, usually priced at 180-190 Shekels but can frequently be found on special offer for under 180 Shekels.
Although probably due to Chill-Filtration and low abv, the Old Pulteney 12 can be a little thin, lacking body, it does display that lovely coastal/briny sea breeze air aroma to it. Fruity sweet and floral, light honey, biscuits with citrus and fresh banana notes. Well worth the money.
Honourable Mentions
Bowmore No.1 40%.
There is nothing whatsoever about this bottling which even hints at Integrity credentials. Moreover, as far as I am aware, none of the other Bowmores in the current line-up are worthy of this title either, so the Bowmore No.1 cannot even be described as a gateway whisky to better Bowmores. However, it does show hints of that classic Islay single malt signature with its seaweed-y salty peatiness which would make it, due to its low price, a gateway into other Islay Single Malts such as Caol Ila 12, Laphroaig 10 or Ardbeg 10.
Ultimately, I wouldn't use it for any of my presentations as it has a very thin mouthfeel and tastes more like it was bottled at 30% abv, rather than its stated 40%.
Tomintoul 10, 40% abv
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Perhaps considered the "classic" generic Anti-Intergrity "ultra-smooth" Speyside Single malt, I mention this only because it is often sold at near Blended Whisky prices. I personally have not sampled this is years, after receiving a bottle from a batch which smelt slightly of paint-stripper. However, I have enjoyed this dram in the past. If on special offer then it's worth giving it a go, in place of the Johnny Walker Black Label or Chivas Regal which you would usually mindlessly pick from the "booze" shelf.
Conclusions
It is indeed possible to obtain quality Integrity, or at least semi-Integrity bottlings at an Entry-Level price. Notwithstanding, it is fascinating to see some spirits companies deciding to bottle their Entry-Level Single Malts without artificial colouring but to Chill-Filter them, whilst others choose to not Chill-Filter yet add E150a Caramel colouring.
In my opinion, you'd be wise to spend your budget on the above selection rather than the run-of-the-mill "smooth" Glenlivet/Glenfiddich type offerings which most punters would pluck for.
As Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year rapidly approaches, I am reminded of one of the central themes being to start the new year as free from sin as possible. As Rav Zev Leff would say: a building which has a firm solid integrity foundation will be able to support a second and third floor which may not be exactly built to the highest quality. However, to start with a compromised foundation will result in disaster no matter how well the subsequent floors are built.
So to with Single Malt Whisky. Don't start with the over-processed, over-engineered heavily compromised Whiskies. Instead, begin your voyage with Single Malts which show solid integrity, purity, transparency and honesty, which is, as I have shown, possible even on a budget.
So, Shana Tova and Le Chayim. Enjoy the journey into the wonderful world of Single Malt Whisky.
Thank you for this review, great suggestions. For both Arran and Deanston, it is still possible to find the 10 and 12, respectively, below 40 GBP - sometimes even below 35 GBP. For me, paying a few extra pounds is worth it.
ReplyDeleteI would also suggest the Glencadam 10 and basically anything in the James Eadie 'small batch' range at around that price. The James Eadies are a good way to grasp the distillery character of less popular Speyside and Highland distilleries (and the occasional Caol Ila) as they are around 10 years old, no sherry casks involved (a mixture of re-char, re-fill and 1st fill bourbon) and an integrity presentation.
Thanks very much for the feedback. I've updated my article to better reflect recent changes in prices both here in Israel and in the UK which alter my selection.
DeleteThanks very much for the feedback. I've now updated my article to better reflect recent changes in prices both here in Israel and in the UK.
Delete