A Case for the “Integrity Challenged” Glencadam American Oak Reserve (and similar likewise Single Malts)
A Case for the “Integrity Challenged” Glencadam American Oak Reserve (and similar likewise Single Malts)
What I mean by
this is, that this expression has no Age Statement, it’s bottled at 40% minimum
legal abv, it’s chill-filtered and almost certainly contains Caramel colouring.
These reviewers would have you believe that somehow, the mere presence on the
shelves of wine shops of this bottle is an embarrassment to Glencadam and a
betrayal to its loyal fan base.
Actually, this “American
Oak Reserve” is not Glencadam’s first entry into the Entry-Level / Gateway
budget market. That distinction goes to the Glencadam “Origin 1825”. Released
in 2016, it is initially matured in Glencadam’s classic Bourbon Barrels before
spending a finishing period in Oloroso Sherry butts. I remember speaking to
someone at Glencadam at the time and they weren’t exactly proud of it.
With a shake of
his head, he sighed and said, “It’s something that ‘the execs upstairs’ thought
would be a good idea”.
From what I see,
reviews of the “Origin 1825” have been generally negative. One reviewer wrote:
“Young, biting, immature spirit with a superficial wine coating…”.
However, what
was interesting was that all the serious whisky reviewers pretty much ignored this
bottle, as if it had never existed.
Which is why I was wondering why the “American Oak Reserve” has received attention not just from those who regularly review budget whiskies (who by the way, love it), but also from some who usually only review Integrity bottings? These reviewers of more up-market Single Malts go on to criticise it for its lack of Integrity. But why not just ignore it?
Well, my guess is that it’s because unlike the Glencadam “Origin 1825”, this “American Oak Reserve” uses the same artwork design as the highly regarded and Integrity-level core-range bottlings. Perhaps their feeling is that this whisky doesn’t deserve to be associated with the rest of the range?
But, should Glencadam
really be embarrassed about the American Oak Reserve?
If we must talk
about a real genuine embarrassment to the integrity of the Glencadam branding,
let’s just take a minute to remember the bunch of notorious YouTube videos
Angus Dundee uploaded on their official YouTube channel a few years ago, which
featured the then Glencadam Global Brand Ambassador promoting the pouring of their
10, 15 and (if I’m not mistaken), even 21-Year-Old Integrity Bottling Single
Malts into “fashionable” cocktails.
Interestingly, it
looks as if Angus Dundee themselves may have subsequently regretted this
particular train-wreck of a marketing idea as their entire series of Glencadam
cocktail mix videos have now been expunged from their official YouTube channel,
along with the accompanying and highly entertaining Comments section below,
where these videos received universally negative feedback, some mercilessly mocking
the contents.
Due to the fact
that you can no longer enjoy the many witticisms that have now been deleted, I’ve
managed to reproduce some here. (Yes, I saved them).
Note: I have removed the actual YouTube commentator’s handles:
AAAA Commented on Glencadam Highland
Haze Cocktail
Please, please stop these embarrassing and insulting videos. Do you
really think genuine Glencadam fans want to see their favourite dram being used
as a mix in cocktails? Seriously, what do you think you are playing at?
TTTT Commented on Glencadam Highland Haze Cocktail
This is an insult to the workers at Glencadam Distillery who have
spent decades making this wonderful dram. I simply don't understand what Angus
Dundee are thinking. It is a complete marketing train wreck if you ask me.
XXXX Commented on the Glencadam Algonquin Cocktail
I actually have the perfect and ultimate Whisky cocktail for you.
Take one Glencairn glass, add 35cc of Glencadam 10/15/18/21 of your choice, add
a half teaspoon of water, swirl in the hand and enjoy. That's the only cocktail
you should be making with a Glencadam.
ZZZZ Commented on the Glencadam Algonquin Cocktail
Good evening, ladies and gentlemen and welcome to the "How to
Ruin Your Luxury Brand" show. (The audience applauds in excitement).
Later on in the program we will be showing you how to turn your
Aston Martin DB7 into a practical Worker's van.
After that however, Tina will be explaining how to use Dom Pérignon
and bleach to get that sparkling clean toilet bowl you’ve always wanted.
We review your letters on last week's challenge to find out how many
Louis Vuitton bags you will need, filled with plaster to redo the patio. We
reveal all in next week's episode of "How to Ruin Your Luxury Brand".
But now, for our special guest star, it's over to Iain, Glencadam’s
very own Global Brand Ambassador, who will show you how to make a classic
cocktail from Glencadam 15 YO Single Malt whisky. Over to you Iain....
…but I digress.
So, the cocktail
mix videos notwithstanding, Glencadam has a well-deserved reputation for releasing
Integrity bottlings and being transparent with its customers, particularly when
it comes to information on Cask Type Maturation (something that we strictly
kosher whisky consumers much appreciate).
Despite
Glencadam dafka informing us of the Cask Type used for this “American
Oak Reserve” expression, for those of us who are living in the real world, we
should appreciate that this is their Entry-Level / Gateway bottling and that
Single Malts in this category are tailored for the casual drinker market. There
is no reason for us whisky enthusiasts (who have “already seen the light”), to
behave like whisky snobs and dump on it because it’s not an integrity bottling.
They are called
“Entry-Level / Gateway” Single Malts for a reason. Their job is to literally
take those casual whisky drinkers from the world of bland, generic Scotch
Blended Whisky and entice them through the gates and into the wide-open expanse
of the wonderful world of Single Malt Whisky.
תהילים
ה"קיח
מִן־הַ֖מֵּצַֽר קָרָ֣אתִי יָּ֑-הּ עָ֜נָ֗נִי
בַּמֶּרְחָ֣ב יָֽ-הּ:
It’s
Artificially Coloured
Yes, it is but If
you would present this Glencadam at natural colour, looking as pale green-straw
yellow as the Glencadam 10, then casual drinkers would surely jump to the
conclusion that it was under matured, young, harsh whisky. Whilst we would
marvel at its poor natural colour, the uninitiated, not knowing any better and
never having heard of E150a, will compare the look of the Glencadam 10, costing
twice as much as bottles such as Auchentoshan American Oak, Glenfiddich 12,
Glenmorangie 12 and Glen Moray 12, that all have that lovely warm looking brown-fudgy,
varnished wood look (that most people associate with the colour of Scotch
Whisky) and reject it out of hand.
It's Bottled
at Minimum Legal ABV
Yes, but these
same casual whisky consumers will take one sip and dismiss out of hand any
whisky bottled at 46% abv or higher, as they’ll probably find it too alcohol-forward
and harsh. Why? Because they won’t know that they are supposed to add water!
That’s why Entry-Level, Gateway Single Malts should be bottled at between
40-43% abv, because most casual drinkers will be pouring directly into a glass
and drinking it “neat”.
It’s a NAS
Yes, it’s a NAS (No Age Statement) bottling, but at this price range, that’s probably a wise decision by the execs. No doubt there is relatively young whisky, say 4-6 years-old, vatted with some older whiskies at 10 to even 16 years of age in this Glencadam. This is simply in order to keep the price down so that it remains competitive within its market. Again, the uninitiated / casual drinker, seeing an Age Statement of say, 4 or 5-Years (due to the fact that according to the SWA Regulations, the Age Statement must be that of the youngest whisky in the vatting), would surely put many newbies off. After all (they’ll think), if I can buy a “Glen-Something” 12-Year-Old for the same price or cheaper, why would I buy this 5-Year-Old? In their minds, having spent less time in the cask must obviously translate into being less “smooth”! Hence, the reason why the spirits company would choose not to put a young Age Statement on their whisky for these Entry-Level products.
Editor's Note: Those who have been reading my articles for a while might recall that in the past, I have expressed an opinion that I was totally opposed to all NAS bottlings. At one time I even wrote that I thought that Age Statements should be mandatory for all Single Malt Whisky and that I was in favour of the banning of the NAS castigatory altogether. Since then, I have somewhat mellowed my opinion on NAS, but only when it comes to Entry-Level / Gateway Single Malts.
I still believe however, that there is absolutely no excuse, in my opinion, not to print an Age or Vintage Statement on any release that is aimed at the Single Malt whisky enthusiast / Integrity Bottling market (with its accompanying premium price). Releasing some expression with nothing but a fancy name and a background story created in the marketing room, for the whisky aficionado that does not come with an age or distillation and bottling year statement, is just showing a complete lack of respect to whisky enthusiasts.
Now I have that
off my chest, the next article I upload will Be’ezras Hashem, be the
actual review…



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