M&H Pomegranate Wine Cask – The Festival Sample Bottle Versus the “Elements” Series
M&H Pomegranate Wine Cask – The "Jerusalem Whiskey Experience 2023" Festival Sample Bottle Versus the “Elements” Series
This article includes two whisky reviews:
1. The M&H “Jerusalem Whiskey Experience 2023” Festival Pomegranate Wine Single Cask Sample bottling.
2. The M&H "Elements" Pomegranate Wine Cask Rosh Hashana Special Edition.
Note: The Milk
And Honey distillery now wishes to be known as M&H. I’ll explain why, bli Neder
in my next article.
This article also contains a discussion of Full-Term Maturation versus Finishes.
What is Pomegranate Wine?
Seeing as both these Single Malts were matured in Pomegranate Wine Casks, it’s important to know what the previous contents of the cask is all about in order to give us a greater appreciation of its flavour influence upon the whisky, just as we would for Ex-Bourbon, Ex-Port, Ex-Sherry, Ex-Rum etc,
A typical Rimon “Dry” wine (i.e., one where no sugar is added), displays a beautiful bright reddish-purple colour, a uniquely pomegranate rich fruit aroma and flavour, with a hint of black pepper coming from the cask.
See the Rimon Winery Website for further details:
I’ve tried quite a few bottles of
Rimmonim (Pomegranate in Hebrew) Dry Red wine from the Rimon winery in
Dalton (unsuitable for Kiddush by the way but lovely to serve during the
seuda), and they were absolutely delicious. I’ve also tried their
Pomegranate Port Style Fortified wine which was very impressive as well.
How can you describe to someone who knows the taste of a descent Dry Red wine but has never tried wine from Pomegranate juice?
The flavour character is similar but Rimmonim Wine is more
intense and more tart, like black currents. Many describe the tartness as cranberries like. There is also sweet red cherries and berries rather than the softer
flavours you get from red grapes. Aromatic spices, smooth tannins, cooked black
pepper and an unusual combination of just a hint of bitter Pomegranate white pith
like notes with intense ultra-sweet pomegranate juice.
Pomegranates And The Land of
Israel
Pomegranates or Rimmonim,
are indigenous to Eretz Yisrael (The Land of Israel) and mentioned in the Torah as one of the Seven
Holy Species of Eretz Yisrael.
“…a land of Wheat, Barley, Grape Vines, Figs, Pomegranates, Olives and Date Honey”. (Devarim 8:8).
I am not aware of any other distillery from anywhere in the world that also matures in Pomegranate Casks. So, I would say that for M&H to mature their whisky in these Casks, it really does give these whiskies a uniquely Israeli flavour.
The M&H “Jerusalem Whiskey Experience 2023” Festival Pomegranate Wine Single Cask Sample bottling.
M&H Pomegranate Wine
Cask |
Data Sheet |
Owner: |
M&H |
Barcode: |
None |
Single Cask: |
Cask No. 2018-0816B |
Cask Type: |
225L “Saury” Ex-Pomegranate Wine Barrique Cask |
Price: |
Was NIS
85 for a 200 ml sample bottle |
Alcohol: |
64.9%
abv Cask Strength* |
Age |
5
Years |
Distillation Date: |
24/06/2018 |
Bottling Date: |
17-18/05/2023 |
Non-Chill-Filtered: |
Yes |
Natural
Colour: |
Yes |
Kashrus
Issues: |
None |
Kosher
Certification: |
Star-K |
*As can be seen from the photo, the cask stated 64.9% abv but the label erroneously states 64.1% abv. I was told that it was a typo on the label. However, at 64% abv plus, an extra 0.8% isn’t going to make that much difference.
The Jerusalem Whiskey Experience 2023
(Yes, I know I’ve written “Whiskey”
and not “Whisky” but that’s how the festival organisers spelt it).
These 200 ml Sample bottles were filled straight from the cask at the M&H stand at the “Jerusalem Whiskey Experience 2023”, between the 17th and 18th May of that year. It took place in the beautiful and atmospheric "Ticho House" Museum, built in the early 1860s.
https://www.timeout.com/israel/museums/ticho-house |
Unfortunately, I was upset to find out that there would be no follow up whisky festival in 2024. I don’t know why as I thought that it had been a tremendous success. For the few hours I was there, all the stands were busy and it seemed to me that people were buying a lot of bottles. I also noticed that everyone there seemed to be genuine Single Malt Whisky enthusiasts.
I did not see any of the “boozer”
types, out to get smashed, associated with other types of alcohol and spirits
festivals. I realise that this is going to sound snobbish but I really do think
that the atmosphere was a lot more cultured and similar to UK Whisky festivals
compared to the, shall we say more rowdy annual Tel Aviv Whisky festival.
People ask me why they haven’t seen me at the Tel Aviv Whisky festival. Let’s
just say that the atmosphere there isn’t really “my cup tea” or “my style of
whisky festival”. (Nuff Said)
In order to get to both the
Golani/Yerushalmi and M&H Distillery stands you had to go inside the main
building and walk up the stairs to the first floor. The Golani Distillery stand
was inside, whilst the M&H was outside on the huge balcony. Both places
were packed. Both distilleries also featured a special Festival bottling.
The Yerushalmi Festival Bottling |
When I arrived, it seemed as if all the Yerushalmi Special Festival bottling had already sold out. However, after giving me a very generous sample in my glass, Alona Zibell (wife of David Zibell, owner of Golani), managed to find me one bottle stashed away and promised to put another aside for me which they had left back at the distillery.
Then I proceeded to the M&H
stand. In order to purchase these bottles, you first had to pay around the
corner at the café and then return with the receipt, where upon the bottles
were filled straight from this cask. I bought two bottles as always. One to
open, one to put away.
Tasting Notes for the M&H
Pomegranate Wine Cask Sample Bottle for the “Jerusalem Whiskey Experience 2023”
Appearance
A deep red-wine colour.
Thick syrupy legs. Despite swirling the whisky around the glass, globules of
alcohol stubbornly stuck to the inside of the Glencairn glass and wouldn't budge,
splendidly demonstrating the effects of simple Barrier filtration and a high alcohol level.
On The Nose
Even at almost 65% abv and with
no water added, putting your nose to the glass, you notice that this has a
wonderful, intensely dark fruity sweet smell with no discernible nostril burn
at all. Those big dark red fruity notes remind me of thick tart Raspberry Jam,
Ripe Pomegranate juice (surprise surprise), Cognac, dark chocolate, polished
sweet mahogany and walnut wood (what I call Cocktail cabinet smells). There is
a wonderful aroma of “distillery warehouse” spicy Oak Cask. That’s something I
really enjoy finding in a whisky.
Rich Honey and almond cake (the
one where they put a full teaspoon of coffee in as their secret ingredients).
With Water added, the aromas
really open up with strangely, more alcohol spirit notes. It now has a
mineral-ly mountain stone smell about it, but still dominant on the nose are
those plump dark red fruits with a touch of nice walnut dryness.
Tasting
Now with water added, you get a big mouthfeel of chocolates with liquid cherry liquor centres. Cranberries, black cherries, prunes and figs.
One layer below you have polished mahogany wood, beeswax
honey and vanilla spice cake. There is a lovely taste of fresh walnuts straight
out of their cracked shells, with slight dryness of the remnants of the inside of
the shell still attached.
Compared to your typical Ex-STR
Wine cask matured Single Malt whisky, the flavours in this Pomegranate Wine
Cask Single Malt are much stronger and far more intense, like contrasting
freshly made blackcurrant jam with blackcurrant cordial drink after having been
diluted with water. There is more texture as well as flavour.
This Ex-Pomegranate Wine Cask Single Malt Whisky, straight from the cask gives you a wonderfully full-bodied, textured mouth and nose experience. It nevertheless remains perfectly balanced with everything in its place. What I mean by that, is that sometimes you can get a First-Fill Ex-Port or Ex-PX Cask Single Malt where the flavour from the previous content (i.e., the wine), can completely overpower and wipe out all the other flavour influences. Tomer Goren, "Head Distiller" of M&H, has managed to avoid this.
The Difference Between A
Single Malt Matured Full-Term and One Simply Finished in a First-Fill Cask.
This is really the big difference
between a whisky matured full-term in a First-Fill cask and a whisky which is
simply finished in a First-Fill cask for a number of months. With Single Malts
which have been finished, you can still sense that it’s just a coating. Noone
for instance, would claim that chocolate coated digestive biscuits tastes
similar to biscuits made with chocolate.
Conclusion
So, this is simply a beautiful Single Malt and immensely enjoyable to drink. It's the oldest M&H I've yet tasted at 5 Years, which by Israeli climate standards is equivalent to something like 15 "Scotch Whisky" Years Old?
There is no mistaking it! This is
full-on utterly delicious Rimmonim Wine flavour. The M&H Single Cask has the same
distinctive flavour profile as Pomegranate Wine but with the addition of cake
cereal notes. In short, it’s everything one would expect from a First-Fill Rimmonim
Wine cask Single malt Whisky. This little sample bottle was a true delight. I would have loved to have bought a few full-sized bottles of this to keep for a rainy day.
It’s one of those whiskies which you can serve to almost anyone and for any occasion. A whisky where you can spend half an hour discovering all its complex aromas and flavours and also sit back with a glass and relax amongst friends.
M&H Elements Pomegranate
Wine Cask, Special Edition for Rosh Hashana
M&H Elements |
Data Sheet |
Owner: |
M&H |
Barcode: |
7290109232522 |
Price: |
Around
NIS 280 |
Alcohol: |
46% abv |
Age |
NAS
- Unknown |
Non-Chill-Filtered: |
Yes |
Natural
Colour: |
Yes |
Kashrus
Issues: |
None |
Kosher
Certification: |
Star-K |
At the time of writing we are actually
celebrating the festival of Chanukah. I happened to be in a wine shop in
Yerushalayim a few weeks ago and saw these two bottles of “Elements
Pomegranate Wine Cask – Special Edition for Rosh Hashana” on special offer.
They were obviously trying to clear the shelves of old unsold bottles for new
stock.
Having so much enjoyed the
Pomegranate Single Cask sample bottling I bought at the ”Jerusalem Whiskey Experience
2023” Festival, I jumped at the chance to buy these bottles which as I said,
were being sold at a really good price.
I was contemplating waiting until
next Rosh Hashana to publish this review but decided to do it now, as it
will act as an introduction to forthcoming M&H Single malt reviews I plan on
uploading in the next few weeks.
The M&H “Elements” Series
M&H (Milk & Honey) has
three ranges (not including their distillery only bottlings). There’s the
core-range “Elements” series, the “APEX” series and the “Art & Craft”
series.
The Elements Series consists of
the “Elements Sherry Cask”, “Elements Peated”, “Elements Red Wine” and now the
“Elements Pomegranate Wine”.
Please be aware that all the “Elements Series” are not matured in casks of a single type, as implied by “Sherry Cask” or “STR Cask” printed on the front label but actually consist of a marriage or vatting of different type casks (primarily Ex-Bourbon, STR Wine casks), with only an emphasis on the cask type named on the label. The casks are also a combination of First-Fill and Refill, so you only get a mild reference to the previous contents of the stated cask. I suppose you could describe them as “A Compromise of Flavours” series. I was about to find out that this Pomegranate Wine Cask is a perfect example of the style.
I must admit that at the time of
purchase, I naively assumed that I’d be getting a similar tasting experience from
these “Elements” Pomegranate Wine Cask Single Malts to the sample bottle I
bought at the festival. How wrong I was!
I was in for a bit of a
disappointment. From the very first sniff into the glass it was clear that this
“Elements” Series bottling was nothing like the festival Sample bottling of
Pomegranate Wine Cask I had so much enjoyed the year before.
Pomegranates and Rosh
Hashana
Editor’s Note: Again, Yes, I Know it’s Chanukah now but it would be deficient of me not to explain the connection of Pomegranates to Rosh Hashana.
This Elements Pomegranate Wine
Cask was originally a special release celebrating Rosh Hashana – The
Jewish New Year. However, if I am not mistaken, they have now made it part of
the core-range of the Elements series.
Vayikra 23:24 “Speak to the Children of Israel, saying:
‘You must celebrate the first day of the seventh month as a day of rest—a
remembrance of the shofar blast; a holy occasion. |
|
כד דַּבֵּ֛ר אֶל־בְּנֵ֥י יִשְׂרָאֵ֖ל לֵאמֹ֑ר בַּחֹ֨דֶשׁ הַשְּׁבִיעִ֜י
בְּאֶחָ֣ד לַחֹ֗דֶשׁ יִֽהְיֶה לָכֶם֙ שַׁבָּת֔וֹן זִכְר֥וֹן תְּרוּעָ֖ה
מִקְרָא־קֹֽדֶשׁ: |
Rosh Hashana or
“The Head of the Year” is a two-day Yom Tov, which has two parallel themes:
1. To recognise Hashem (G-d) as
our Father, who wants a continued loving relationship with His children and
2. To declare Hashem as our King,
who will assess us for our conduct over the previous year and judge us
accordingly.
Our Father, Our King, we have sinned before
You. Our Father, Our King, we have no King
besides You. Our Father, Our King, act compassionately
with us for the sake of Your name. Our Father, Our King, renew for us a good
[new] year. |
|
אָבִינוּ מַלְכֵּנוּ חָטָאנוּ לְפָנֶיךָ אָבִינוּ מַלְכֵּנוּ אֵין לָנוּ מֶלֶךְ אֶלָּא אָתָּה אָבִינוּ מַלְכֵּנוּ עֲשֵׂה עִמָּנוּ לְמַעַן
שְׁמֶךָ אָבִינוּ מַלְכֵּנוּ חַדֵּשׁ עָלֵינוּ שָׁנָה
טוֹבָה |
Rosh Hashana can be quite
an emotionally antithetical and paradoxical two days. On one hand, we are celebrating
our closeness to “Our Father, Our King” in an annual coronation of affirmation,
by wearing smart clothing and eating and drinking festive meals as we would do if we were celebrating the crowning of a human king. But at the same time, there is
a feeling of solemnness, not a little anxiety and nervous tension as we contemplate
the fact that Hashem, the King of Kings, is judging us.
At the beginning of the evening seuda
(festive meal) we eat various symbolic foods with an accompanying wish which
reflect these ideas.
In Chutz LaAretz (Outside
of Israel) apples (specifically apples dipped in honey), is the fruit most
associated with Rosh Hashana and this is what’s eaten first. We dip the
apple in honey at the beginning of the evening seuda (festive meal) and
recite together the following wish:
יְהִי רָצוֹן מִלְפָנֶיךָ ה' אלוקינו ואלקי אבותינו, שֶתְחַדֵש עָלֵינוּ שָנָה טוֹבָה וּמְתוּקָה
“May it be Your will, Hashem,
our G-d and the G-d of our forefathers, that you grant us a good and sweet new
year”.
However, many Jews in Israel tend
to concentrate more on the native Pomegranate as the central fruit that most symbolises
Rosh Hashana. For some it takes precedence over the apple, for others it
comes next on the list of symbolic foods.
The most obvious connection to Rosh Hashana is the fact that the pomegranate has its own “Royal crown”, symbolising our recognition that Hashem is our King and there is no other besides Him. After the pomegranate has been eaten, some have the minhag (custom) of leaving the crown on the table throughout the seuda (which is cut off the top before splitting the fruit open and separating all the seeds). The many seeds covered in the sweet reddish-purple flesh represents the many mitzvos (commandments) that Hashem has given us to observe. After we have eaten the fruit, we say:
יְהִי רָצוֹן מִלְפָנֶיךָ ה' אלוקינו ואלקי אבותינו, שנרבם
זכיות כרמון.
“May it be Your will, Hashem, our G-d and the G-d of our forefathers, that our merits increase like the [many] seeds of the pomegranate”.
…and now for the review.
Tasting Notes for the M&H
Elements Pomegranate Wine Cask
Appearance
The colour is a golden honey
brown. Compared to the Whisky Festival sample, it is far paler which again
leads me to believe that we are dealing here with a Second-Fill Pomegranate
Wine Cask. Alcohol tears are very respectable with large beads of whisky sticking
to the inside of the glass, displaying a certain amount of oiliness.
Nosing
As mentioned above, my initial
reaction was one of disappointment. On the nose, the liquid has a vague sweet
Red Wine and Vanilla Custard note to it but unlike the Festival Sampling bottling, you certainly
would not recognise any specific Pomegranate flavour in it. I had not taken into
consideration the fact that being from the “Elements” series, this was a
marriage of other cask types like STR red Wine and American Oak barrels, and I
also suspect that these Pomegranate casks are Refill casks, that is, that they
have been used once before to mature whisky for the APEX Pomegranate Wine Cask
series. (Just a guess).
Once I had got over my initial
disappointment, I began to notice that this Elements Pomegranate Wine Cask
actually had some very pleasant notes of “Cocktail Cabinet” beeswax polished
wood, honey, sweet caramel tea and mixed red berries fruit cake with delicately
roasted spices. Even at 46% abv without dilution, it has a really agreeable and
well-balanced nose.
After I had realised that this
wasn’t going to give me that full-on Rimmonim flavour I had so much
enjoyed with the sample bottling, I began to judge this whisky on its own
merits, as a well-made and excellently balanced vaguely red-fruit flavoured
Single Malt. Mixed Red fruits, vanilla, wet strawberry fruit cake and polished
wood spices.
Finish
Soft polished oak and mild tannins,
more red fruit and caramel. Relatively short but fruity sweet finish.
Conclusions
In truth, the M&H Elements
Pomegranate Wine Cask is a very nice, easy going sipping whisky and anyone
without my unrealistic preconceptions would thoroughly enjoy this as a really well
balanced, vaguely red fruity and beeswax polish oak sweet dram. It is quite delicious.
I’d certainly recommend this
whisky if you can get it for under NIS 250, as it’s expertly well-crafted and
perfect for an after-dinner dram, but don’t expect it to taste of Pomegranate
wine.
If you want the same experience I
got from the Distillery Single Cask sample bottlings, then you’ll need to go to
the distillery and if you’re lucky, they might have a full-size Distillery
Exclusive there.
Failing this, there is an “APEX” Series Pomegranate Wine Cask bottling - Cask Strength. There have been various editions. Some I believe were matured Full-Term in Ex-Pomegranate Wine Casks like the exhibition sample (these are obviously the preferred types if you can find them), and some have been initially matured in Ex-Bourbon barrels and then finished in a Single First-Fill Pomegranate Port Style (fortified Wine) Cask. The example I bought to review at a later date (shown above) was finished for six months in this Port Style Pomegranate Wine Cask and bottled at 57.4% abv.
I have yet to open the bottle but would imagine that it's likely to give you more of a Pomegranate flavour profile than the Elements Edition, despite it being a relatively short Finish. (I'm still on the lookout for an Apex Pomegranate Wine Cask matured Full-Term).
Checking the price here in
Israel, I see the APEX Single Pomegranate Wine Cask is being sold at a very
reasonable NIS 380-430, which makes the Elements Pomegranate Wine Cask at NIS
280-300, poor value for money, unless like me, you find it on special offer for
NIS 250 or less.
In London however, I’ve seen the
APEX Pomegranate Single Cask for over £100. In my humble opinion, it’s not
worth three figures in Pounds Sterling. I’d wait until your next trip to Israel
where you can bring back a few bottles of M&H APEX for Rosh Hashana, where
you will be able to taste the Rimmonim!
The APEX Pomegranate Wine Cask
edition is definitely on my list for purchases for 2025, unless I manage to
find a Distillery Exclusive Full-size bottling of Full-Term matured Pomegranate
Wine Cask.
Examples of some Distillery Exclusive bottlings |
Incredibly, the distillery
Exclusive Cask Strength Single Cask bottlings are only NIS 300 in the
distillery shop. In my opinion, that‘s more than a bargain, it’s frankly too
cheap! I bet you haven’t heard me say that too many times.
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