Glen Moray Rhum Agricole Cask Finish Project Review
Glen Moray Rhum Agricole Cask
Finish Project Review Price: £53
I was looking through my Google Drive Cloud
in my Blogs folder and I noticed that I have quite a few unfinished Whisky review
blogs which have sat there for months or in some cases, even years! I thought,
being that we are all stuck at home in “Beidud” (quarantine), between
watching shiurim on TorahAnytime.com, talking to family and giving shiurim on
Zoom, I’d try and publish some of these unfinished posts.
Introduction
Kasher
LeMahadrin Whisky Cask Types
Generally speaking,
Single Malts considered “strictly kosher”, are restricted LeMa’aseh, to Ex-Bourbon
matured, Virgin oak matured, Kosher Port/Wine matured, and lastly, (being that
it is made from a distillation of sugar cane molasses) - Rum Cask matured
Whisky. The latter will be the subject of this blog.
Obviously, almost
all the whisky I drink tends to be matured in Ex-Bourbon casks and occasionally
heavily charred Virgin Oak, being that they are the most common. However, over
the past few years, I have been getting to know and enjoying the Kosher
Port/Wine matured Single malts, thanks to the wonderful stuff coming out of the
Golan Heights Distillery here in Israel. So, late last year (2019), I decided
that it would be a good idea to try to get more familiar with what is the least
common of the above group of strictly kosher cask types, namely whisky matured
in Rum casks.
Up until now, the
only Rum cask matured single malt readily available here in Israel has been the
Balvenie Caribbean Cask 14-Year-Old. By the way,
this used to be certified by the Manchester Beth Din and I have Import labels
in Hebrew stating as such, as well as a screen shot of the Manchester Beth Din
site from six months ago which includes the Caribbean Cask in its list, yet
this expression seems now to have disappeared from their site. If anybody has
any information about this, then please get in contact with me.
See my review of the
Balvenie Caribbean Cask 14-Year-Old here:
Balvenie has always
had (at least for me), a bit of a generic flavour profile, (but having said
this, their 12-Year-Old Single Bourbon cask expression is really tasty, zesty
stuff). To that end, when I was in Scotland, last November, I decided to
concentrate on buying some Rum cask matured single malts from smaller
craft-presentation distilleries, which I could bring back home to Israel. At
the back of my mind, I was also thinking of perhaps organising a Whisky Evening
presentation on the theme of Rum Cask matured whiskies. So, I ended up with
this small list.
Springbank 15-Year-Old
Rum Wood Cask
Glen Scotia 2003 Distillery
Exclusive Peated Rum
Hunter Laing “The
Old Malt cask” Benrinnes Rum Cask 8 Years.
Lastly, and to start
the ball rolling, I will begin with the Glen Moray Rhum Agricole, which
I purchased from the “Masters of Malt” site and had delivered to my parent’s
home in England.
RHUM AGRICOLE
Versus English Naval Rum
The British Royal Navy
https://www.yachtingmonthly.com/news/ceremony-to-mark-ending-of-rum-tot-at-hms-victory-6539 |
Having said that Rum
Cask matured whisky is quite rare, almost all of those rum casks being used in
the Scottish Whisky industry are from distilleries making rum in the English
Naval Caribbean tradition. The first
clue that this expression is no ordinary rum cask matured whisky is in its
French use of the spelling: “Rhum”.
https://thedearsurprise.com/the-french-navy-during-the-napoleonic-era/ |
From a Bloomberg
article:
“Rhum Agricole, is
very specific: produced only from the fresh-pressed juice of sugar cane, which
must begin its fermentation process within a day, or it will spoil like milk.
Therefore, Rhum must be produced as close to the source as possible, and so
maintains a distinct taste of its local agricultural provenance, or terroir, if
you will.”
It is only produced
in a very few places in the world and all ex-French colony islands such as the French
West Indies, (mainly Guadeloupe), Madagascar and Martinique, where they
use sugar cane grown especially in the far south of Martinique next to the Atlantic
Ocean.
When I read all this, I made an educated guess that these
Rhum casks have all been sourced by the parent French company of Glen Moray
distillery, namely “La Martiniquaise” (pronounced “La-Mar-ton-ikae”).
My guess was confirmed when I read on “The Spirits Business”
site that these casks came from Martinique-based St James Rhum plantation
distillery (or as they say “Distillerie”).
Packaging
Considering this is a limited-edition expression, it is
interesting that the packaging is completely standard. It’s the normal Glen
Moray bottle in the regular simple cardboard box. I applaud this. Yes, I liked
the Jewel-box style design of the Glen Moray 18 but this understated minimalist
approach enthuses confidence.
Presentation
I further applaud the fact that they have bottled this at higher
than normal 46.3% abv, although I am puzzled why they dafka chose the
specific number of 46.3 which has been up until now, the exclusive reserve of
distilleries coming under the Burn Stewart parent company umbrella, which
includes Deanston, Tobermory and Bunnahabhain, who all bottle at 46.3%.
[Update: I have just realised that the entire series of the "Glen Moray Cask Project", which includes the "Madeira Cask Project" and (the now banned, as it falls foul of the new SWA 2019 Cask Regulations): "The Glen Moray Cider Cask Project", are all bottled at 46.3% abv.
The new head of Whisky Creation at Glen Moray and the brains behind this Cask project is none other than Dr Kirstie McCallum, who, wait for it, wait for it....used to be the Global Brand Ambassodor for Burn Stewart, who "just happened" to choose that magic 46.3 number. Hmm...]
I also wish to praise Glen Moray for stating on the label,
that this expression is Non-Chill Filtered, although no mention is made
regarding whether they have added E150a colouring, so one can assume that this UK
exclusive edition is not a natural colour.
Colour and Look
Indeed, when you pour some of this whisky into a Glencairn
glass, it does seem to have a slight orang-y tint to it, indicating some
caramel colouring. However, it does seem slightly paler than the regular
Ex-Bourbon releases.
Despite stating on the label that this is
Non-Chill-Filtered, whilst swirling the liquid around in the glass, it does not
seem to exhibit a particularly high viscosity.
Nosing and Tasting
The aroma is in fact, simply delightful. Gentle blossom perfume,
rich honey cake, yellow fruity, roasted almonds, gentle wood spices, new leather
shoes. I could spend 20 minutes just sniffing this.
As many of you know, I always recommend Glen Moray 12 as the
No.1 Introductory transition dram, which I would pour to anyone who has as yet
not discovered the wonderful world of single malt whisky. Glen Moray is gentle
and light yet packed with flavour. So different to the harshness of most
Blended Scotch Whiskies.
As I was writing this review, Ralfy Mitchel just uploaded
another of his classic vlogs and this was coincidently about rum! In it he
mentions that French colonial style Rhum was very different to British colonial
style rum, the latter being much heavier. So French Rhum it seems, is a more
delicate lighter spirit. Yup! I can confirm this and it definitely compliments
the Glen Moray signature flavour.
I will have to look out for a genuine French Rhum in the
local Jerusalem wine stores, here, in order to experience the original spirit itself.
However, at the moment of writing, (Monday 16th
March 2020), all the wine stores along with almost every other store except those
selling food, are all closed as per Government regulations due to this Corona
virus pandemic. I do wish all of you reading this, much “brius” –
health, and to those who are un well, a “Refuah Sheleima” – a full
recovery.
May Hashem speedily save us from this terrible and
unprecedented affliction. Amen.
Finishes or ACEing
Indeed, this bottle is almost finished!!! |
The label states that this is a “Cask Finish Project” which
means that the whisky was not actually exclusively matured in these Rhum casks
but that the whisky, which had been maturing previously in other type casks
(almost certainly Ex-Bourbon), was then transferred to these casks in order to
add extra flavour, to “finish” the whisky off, before bottling.
Usually, the whole point of finishes (also known as ACEing –
“Additional Cask Enhancement”), is to give a maturing whisky a flavour boost just
before bottling, in order to hide the lack of maturation of an old inactive
refill cask by finishing it in an active full flavoured cask. This doesn't seem
to be the case here.
The classic Bourbon flavour notes and the Glen Moray in
particular character shine through here but there is something else on top. That
is, a kind of a dark brown sugar sweetness. Glen Moray has a biscuit and ice
cream character but this is a more vanilla fudge, raison rum ice cream. Light,
elegant and fruity sweet but a wider variety of fruits. Milk chocolate.
So, with this Rhum finish, I was expecting a heavy sweet
syrupy molasses sugary flavour with dates and raisins with gun powder/burnt
matches sulphur-y character to completely obliterate the classic Glen Moray
flavour signature; but, in fact, even on the first smell and sip, this is
instantly recognisable as a Glen Moray.
It is as if the ex-Bourbon casks used are First Fill and the
Rhum cask finish has simply added a few subtle extra flavours to it.
Sipping the whisky with just a drop of water, I get
delicious but delicate yellow apples, oranges, raisins, vanilla pods, vanilla
fudge, creamy vanilla filling digestive biscuits, kitchen spices.
Conclusion
For those who enjoy their heavy meaty or peaty whiskies,
this Glen Moray is not for you. However, for those who enjoy the lighter more
delicate types of single malts, this is for you. Let me say again, this might
be light in style but it’s packed with flavour, so don’t let the word “delicate”
put you off. Some would label this a dram for the ladies but I’d say it can be
enjoyed by everyone.
Mechiras Chametz 2020
Lastly, I would have said in normal times, “don’t forget to
sell your Chametz before Pesach by going to see your local Rav”, but due to
these extraordinary times, the Rabbanut here in Israel are instructing
you to do Mechiras Chametz online.
Hebrew:
English:
IMPORTANT: Everyone like me who has a large whisky
collection, is used to selling Chametz Gamor. However, this year, I have
been told from reliable Poskim that even those who have never sold
actual Chametz before, that this year, (2020) you SHOULD put it all away, seal it up and
sell ALL your Chametz Gamor, including flour, pasta….
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